Visiting the falls of Iguazu was one of the adventures I have been planning in my mind for a long time. I have been to other large parks with falls, like Niagara, the Salto del Laja (Harbour Falls), the Petrohue Falls. Going to Iguazu from Chile is both simple and cheap. It was during our last visit to Chile that we decided to take several days to accomplish this journey. There are three flights weekly between the city of Iquique in Chile’s norte grande (main north) and Ciudad del Este (“city of the east”) in the easternmost part of Paraguay. Mercosur flies there in new airplanes and the trip to Asunción takes two hours, plus a further 50 minutes to reach Ciudad del Este. The views during the flight of the Andes and the Chaco are marvellous. We flew over the copper mine of Chuquicamata, and the passed close to volcanoes like Lancancabur and Lascar.
It is best to make travel arrangements through an agent who will take care of planning your itinerary, transfers, hotels, park visits, and so on. From Ciudad del Este it takes about an hour to drive to Foz de Iguazu on the Brazilian side of the falls. The Iguazu river, empties into the Parana River, which forms a natural boundary between Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil. The Foz de Iguazu National Park lies twenty-five Km. above this juncture. We checked into a very good hotel in Foz and the following morning our guide arrived early to begin our visit to the Brazilian side of the Falls.
For those of you who have not visited this park, let me assure you that the views are indescribable, and if you have been to Niagara, here is a comparison: Iguazu is a coming-together of between 150 and 500 falls between Argentina and Brazil. The number of these cataracts depends upon the water which flows down the Iguazu from the Brazilian Mato Grosso. This year has been very dry, so there were about 150 falls. Iguazu is 72 m high and drops 1,750 m3/sec., as compared to Niagara which falls 51 m. with a volume five times that of Iguazu, or 7,500 m3/sec. The big difference is in the surroundings. Iguazu Foz Park is virgin forest with more than 185,000 hectares, and limited access. Here there are all types of wild animals: tigers, jaguars, monkeys, coatis, alligators, crocodiles, serpents, and poisonous spiders.
“Iguazu” in the Guaraní language means “big water.” (“I” is water and “guazu” means “big.”) There is only one entrance to the park and private vehicles are not admitted. All passengers are brought in via comfortable open trailers towed by jeeps. No one is allowed to wander off the paths and roads of the park. Guides point out items of interest along the way. I have jotted down the following in my travel diary: orchids, lianas, araceas, junipers, perobios, alecrim. The Iguazu rises out of the Sierra Madre of Brazil and is 1,230 km long. The palmera or palmito-doce, from the heart of which is extracted the delicious palmito, grows very tall. The tree is said to take between 10 and 15 years to mature, and this variety of palm dies when the palmito which grows at the top of the tree is harvested. The bark from this and other plants produces pilocarpina (shampoo), medicine to treat glaucoma, thousands more medicinal plants like the Jaboranyí. The “ladders” from the lianas are used to treat diabetes. The orchids grow to immense proportions in the treetops. They blossom once a year and the Guaraní people coincide their “New Year” with this flowering. The Timbauva tree grows reaches a height of 25 m and matures at the age of 100 years. The indians used their trunks to make their dugout canoes. They burned the centre and continued to scrape it out; this process took almost two years. The bark of this tree absorbs oxygen from the water. The natives used it to fish, throwing huge numbers of tree trunks in the water and waiting for the fish to asphyxiate and float to the top. Other interesting names of trees: Angico Mermello, Uvaina, Lauro Blanco, Maria Preta, el Jeriba, and Costela de Adao.
We left the trailer and hiked through the forest on a narrow road to a small cataract, the Salto de Macuto, which drops 25 m and forms a pool of crystal-clear water. The humidity is heavy but since the flora is so thick, the temperature is a constant 25° the year round. On the walls of the rocks are semi-precious stones: quartz and agate. The path continues across the tropical forest until it arrives at a landing where zodiac inflatable launches, each with two 150-horse-power outboard motors, await the passengers. Twenty to 25 climb in each, all wearing orange life vests. The rafts cross the rapids of the river, going up one side and down the other. It is quite exciting, and I confess that not being a person who is overly fond of rapids, I felt a little frightened. The Brazilian side is the best side to enjoy the cataracts, since there are only four large falls in Brazil and the rest of the falls are on the Argentine side.
At the base of the huge chasm that forms the Devil’s Gorge (La garganta del Diablo) is found the most spectacular cataract. The water looks as though it were boiling, raising clouds of spray which in the light form giant rainbows that entirely transverse the falls. On the return, it is possible to make a little walking tour of the upper part of the falls. There are lookouts at various levels that extend over the falls and precipices from where one can survey the falls in all their glory. In this area, coatis roam among the tourists; they are the park mascots.
There is a bronze plaque engraved with this psalm that reflects the awe this natural wonder inspires:
Mightier than the thunders of many waters,
Mightier than the waves of the sea.
The Lord on High is mightier!!
Psalm 93:4
God is always greater than all our troubles.
That evening we had a guided tour of the hydroelectric complex, the largest in the world. It is located at Itaipu on the Paraguay River between Brazil and Paraguay. Some of the following facts attest to its status as one of the major man-made marvels of the 20th century.
It can produce 12,600 megawatts (akin to thirty-six 350-MW units burning coal. These coal fired plants take five years to construct and are the prime source of contamination in our planet today). Itaipu has 18 turbines, each with a 700 MW capacity, having a water drop of 196 m., the length of the dam is 2,600 m., and 200 m. wide. It forms an artificial lake of more than 170 km in length and seven in width; it holds 29 billion m3 of water, and is 20 to180 m. deep. The height of the dam is equivalent to a 65-storey building. It is the largest bi-national hydroelectric plant ever built. The project was begun in 1975 and took 32,000 men 16 years to complete it. Its spillway holds seven times the volume of the Iguazu River. Together with the Empire State building, the dykes of Holland, the channel beneath the English Channel, the Golden Gate Bridge, the Panama Canal, the CN Tower of Canada, it is one of the man-made marvels of the past century. The lake is today a huge tourist attraction.
The following day we had to rise early to visit the cataracts on the Argentine side. This one-hour journey took us over the international bridge crossing the Parana River. The park on the argentine side has a less spectacular view of the virgin rain forest; it is only 95 thousand hectares. An Italian-Paraguayan couple joined us during our return and she was telling us the Guaraní names for the trees. El Ambay (am-ba-í, stress on the last syllable) or “cercronia adenopu” is a large tree whose branches stretch upwards seeking the sun. Its trunk is hollow and inhabited by millions of ants. Its fruit serves as food for birds while its medicinal bark is used to cure coughs. The Romella is a beautiful small shrub with long green lives and a brilliant slender red flower growing from its core. La higuera de las Indias (fig tree) produces a large hollow fig. It is inedible but is used to produce glue.
The visit to the cataracts from this side is on foot on pathways that run along both the top and base of the falls. The stretch 2 km each and are simple to negotiate with many vistas for photo opportunities. The falls are named after dignitaries and Argentine personalities, such as Salto (fall) San Martín, Salto Ramirez, Salto Bossetti, Salto de Los Tres Mosquetereos (Three Musketeers), Salto Guardabosque (forest ranger) Bernabe Mendez (killed in a confrontation with poachers in the upper Iguazu, 1968), Salto Mbigua, Salto de las Dos Hermanas (two sisters) and Salto de Belgrano. The most spectacular are Bossetti and the Devil’s Gorge.
From here the coach takes us to the landing to travel to the vista over the Devil’s Gorge. The passage is midstream and one must walk another 800 metres to get to the point. The views are spectacular, and the noise of the crashing falls is an infernal roar. The spray covers our faces, our hair, and our eye glasses. This view from the largest falls of Iguazu leaves one completely humbled. The water continues along the base of the valley as it continues its way to the Paraguay River.
In the afternoon a visit to the Bird Park was not to be missed. This park has all kinds of exotic birds from both this forest and the rest of the world. There are macaws, parrots, guamacayos, and many other species in danger of extinction.
Soon we found ourselves on the bus from the terminal in Ciudad del Este to travel the 300 km to the south of Paraguay. There we visited one of the most colourful cities in this area. This is the cradle of the ruins of the 16th century Jesuit missions, “The Missions of the Trinity,” which will be the theme of an upcoming special edition of these chronicles.
http://gosouthamerica.about.com/od/topdestiguazu/a/FiskJourney.htm?nl=1